20 May 2009

Opening of an ICT Center

I was in Terengganu from 19th to 22nd March 2009 for an official opening of our new community ICT center in Batu Rakit. (ICT is not Ikan Celup Tepong, a local delicacy – deep fried fish with flour, but it stands for Information Communication Technology). The ceremony was graced by Chief Minister of Terengganu, Hnr. Dato’ Ahmad Said who has a penchant or it seems, for ubi gadong (Dioscorea hispida) The launch proper started at 9.30 pm after a ‘berarak bunga manggar’ (traditional procession accompanied by traditional music and favors) and welcome Malay traditional martial art show by local boys. One of the boys was my schoolmate, who guided the group and revived this traditional martial art ‘silat gayong’. The 4 speeches by Mayor of Kuala Terengganu, District Officer, State House Representative of Batu Rakit and Chief Minister were long but ‘entertaining’. I would refrain from making comment on political content of the speeches ( trying to be non partisan!), on how they bragged about being the champions of the people. But in the MB’s speech he told about his father as a “tok nyadat", touched my heart and reminded me of my uncle Paksu Lah, who was also a tok nyadat. His job started with preparing the wood chips of special tree to be added into "tukir"(a container made of bamboo with string wrapped around). Then he would sharpen his sadat (special knife for the purpose of cutting coconut bud). With his tukirs, sadat on his waist and 'kain lepas'(just like kramah in Cambodia) on wrapped on his head, Paksu Lah is ready for the day. He would climb20 to 30 coconut trees, one at a time, collect the coconut sap, come down again and make “nissang” or brown sugar out of the collected sap, called tuak in Terengganu or nira somewhere else. You can drink tuak straight(of course you have to filter the wood chips). The tuak would be cooked in 'kawah' (giant wok) until its become solidified. The hot nissang would be placed in round brackets made of 'mengkuang' leaves (screwpine leaves) to cool off and harden. I could still remember the aroma of nissang in the making and lovely taste of “kerak” nisang – partially burnt brown sugar. I used to steal some of the hot nissang and placed in leaves to make candies.That evening we were served with onde-onde gadong covered with grated coconut cooked with nissang, putri mandi gadong cooked with grated coconut and nissang, gadong porridge with nissang and coconut milk. If the gadong was not properly prepared, you could get “mabuk” or poisoned. During my younger years, I used to follow my mum to collect these ubi gadong, and then skinned and sliced them before placing them in a sack in the river for a couple of days. School of fishes knew the routine and enjoyed the leftover. My favorite was fried gadong with freshly grated coconut. Kuala Terengganu, my beloved hometown, never fail to charm me with its white sandy beaches, green paddy fields, the people and their antics. Going down this memory lane, really made me miss my mum's sayur rebung udang (grated bamboo shoot and freshwater shrimp cooked in coconut milk) and kerabu pucuk (finely cut young leaves mixed with grated coconut and fish) yummyyyyy!

A Cambodian Muslim Wedding


Recently I attended a Cambodian Muslim (Cham) friends wedding in a village called Roka Keno on scenic Mekong River bank. For those friends who have been to Preksandai Village in Kratie Province should know the 4 to 5 hours adventure from Phnom Penh through the rustic villages, paddy fields and hustle and bustle at pit stops in Kampong Cham and in between. If you are feeling a bit adventurous and fancy local "exotic" food, you can sample deep fry crickets or skewed spiders.The 'kenduri' reception held separately in very early morning on both sides of bride and groom. Five to six guests seated in circle before we were served with sumptuous beef curry, fresh pickles, stir fry vegies, mix soup and local cookies. And you have the options of bottled water or Chinese (or rather Khmer) tea. By 10 am the family members and friends were packed into three rented vans. Some opted for motorbike rides, including yours truly. One hour plus pillion ride on dirt roads was not vertebrae friendly. Not to mention sore butt. By the time I arrived at the bride’s house, where the “akad nikah” ceremony would take place, my hair was wire-hard. My shirt, pant, ears,nose and mouth were like KL house water filters. Luckily I wore yellow shirt which blended nicely with new layer of yellowish orange dust.The bride wore creamy white “baju kurung” with matching head scarf and sported gliterring tiara. The groom wore a black jacket on top of silver “baju melayu”. He also sported a black ‘songkok’ with golden lining lace. The ritual started with short sermon and citation of hadith by the Imam brought along from groom’s community. Then the father of the bride offered and the groom accepted by simple “I do” to take the bride to be his lawful wedded wife, minus the nerve wrecking handshake and the usual mouthful “lafaz” in Malay weddings. Then the Imam recited doa and ended with congratulatory handshakes by all attendees. This was simplicity at it best.Before we could disperse from the crowded house, which extensively decorated with floral motive, again we were served with local cookies, local pancake and yellow glutinous rice cooked with coconut milk and a sweet coconut pulp cooked in brown sugar as topping and another round of Chinese tea. I thought it was a taboo to snap photos with the bride unless you are related. But we had a field day, taking turn posing with the newly wed couple.